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One of the pleasures and surprises of our move to Beaune has been exploring the charm of the surrounding villages that are just a few minutes away. Pommard, Volnay, Mercurey, Puligny Montrachet, maybe names you've heard of if you are a wine lover. 

Tiny Volnay, perched on a hillside overlooking a big valley of vineyards, is the site of one of my favorite restaurants in the area, 免费vpm全球网络加速器. The retaurant is a large building set in a cour intérieure, or walled courtyard. Outdoor tables are set in the garden, on the upper stone terrace or the lower, shady gravel terrace. The food is upscale French bistro food, the prices are moderate, and on a perfect Burgundy summer day, there is no better place to be.

Below, the gardens of the restaurant, and diners on the terrace.

 

After lunch it's time to flâner (meander) around the village. What attracts me are the little things, the quotidian details in a historic, quiet village which produces some of the most sophisticated wine in the world, peopled by rural farmers, producers, vendors--a mélange of good folk. Pour yourself a glass and join us for a stroll. Salut!

 

The header over the village church door

 

Wine is sold in several small 网络加速器免费破解. I loved the way the ivy was trimmed into a wine glass on this building, to match their logo.

 

Flowers are tucked in everywhere, with abandon.

 

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Being a Vigneron may seem glamorous, but grapes are an agricultural product, as evidenced by the many specialized tractors for pruning and spraying and picking that we saw that day.

This vineyard is right on the edge of the village. It's pruning time.

 

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Here is the world's smallest dining terrace. I think you have to climb over the table to get to the other chair.

 

In the COMMENTS: I was overwhelmed by all the good wishes on our return, thank you! Kristin, good luck with that darling new Papillon, a great lockdown companion. Roger, your comment tickled me, and I couldn't agree more! Anne Marie, the airport was not crowded, and we took a rental car to Beaune. Folks here wear masks inside (it's mandated now), but curiously, social distancing is only one metre in France. Virus numbers are low, but it's vacation time and eveyone is one the move, so we'll see. Lee and Maureen, good to hear from you and I think you're in the right place. Renee, we'll all be praying for you. I hate that they will open the schools at this point. I hope all of you will stay safe and well.

In her comment Doris, who made a similar trip back to France, mentioned she did needlepoint on the plane. Here is a photo she sent of her worthy project, nearly completed, and I love the sentiment:

Favorite READS: If you want a nice long read, our reader Betsy recommends Frederick Douglas, Prophet of Freedom by David Blight, which won a pulitzer.  

 

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Your French Mot du Jour: L免费加速器上网 which is lockdown lingo. Meals come around really often in Le Confinement, don’t they? I don’t know about you, but I’ve been cooking like a maniac,  and struggling to keep up with looming mealtimes.

Worried about food shortages, I signed up for a weekly local farm delivery here in Charleston. In which they deliver a box of 15 pounds (7 kilos) of assorted veggies each week, whatever they’re growing. I can tell you that no matter what shortages occur, we will not starve to death. Fifteen pounds is a LOT of veggies. 

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Refrigerator Pickles, to tackle a mountain of cucumbers.

And what I dreamed up this week is infinitely versatile: veggie turnovers, with a bit of meat or fish if you like.And if you use pre-made piecrust, you can turn out a terrific turnover in a half hour. I use Pillsbury here, but puff pastry would work too; in France I would use a pâte feuilleté.

We’ve blogged about turnovers before, which were never a French thing, until I discovered that the local traiteur  (a fancy catering shop) in Beaune now carries round puffy ones  for a quick lunch, in all sorts of varieties.

This week I stuffed mine with zucchini, broccoli, white onions, garlic, and a layer of thinly sliced deli cheddar I happened to have on hand. They were crunchy, creamy, and cheesy all at once. You could also use leftover meat or fish or vegetables, chopped fine, and avoid the stovetop all together.

The possibilities  for layering in flavors are as endless as those veggies that are multiplying in my fridge. While we were tucking into them, Ron and I brainstormed some other good combinations for you. But check your fridge for inspiration!

RECIPE: Personalized Turnovers

Traditional French pastries are the sweet ones stuffed with apples, called chaussons aux pommes, but now savory ones are popping up. 

For this week’s turnover version, which makes 3 large turnovers, I chopped some zucchini up small, and diced a small white onion. I sliced a few florets of broccoli very thin.四川省纪委网站推出“网上纪检这一年”专题 -本网原创_四川新闻:2021-10-16 · 一年来，网站累计刊载各类信息6300余条，推出专题38个;受理网络信访举报15594伀，权威发布典型案伀81伀。 “廉洁四川”网站自去年11月6日开通伃来，总访问量突破1亿人(次)，日均访问量30万人( …I added sea salt and ground pepper and sautéed all this in a combo of butter and olive oil, for maybe 4 minutes, adding chopped garlic for the last minute. 

Then I put it into a bowl and added a couple of tablespoons of sour cream and a squeeze of Sriracha sauce. I cut the pie crust into 6 wedges. I put the filling on 3 of them and laid thin deli slices of cheddar on top. Then I topped them with the other wedge, crimped the edges, put a slit in the top, and baked them for 15 minutes at 375, until they were golden and bubbly.  If you have leftover topping, heat it up and serve it over a biscuit or toast for tomorrow’s lunch (which will be here before you know it!).

网络加速器下载—no recipe needed! Instead of sour cream, mayo or even Greek yogurt would work as a binder, and any sort of cheese you have on hand will do. Just be sure to chop everything small. Everything should be pre-cooked. You can also add a salsa or creamy sauce on the side,  for dipping.

—Shrimp, celery, summer squash (or any veggie), onions, gruyère

—Chicken pie turnovers, with carrots, peas, onions, parmesan

—Italian sausage, sautéed bell peppers, onions, basil , grated mozzarella

—Chopped salmon, scallions, dill, asparagus, gruyère

—Leftover beef and chopped steamed or roasted potatoes, then stir in a little tomato paste or marinara sauce, grated cheddar or parmesan

In the Comments: Jane has many an interesting gougère tip for us. Colleen has solved a cheese puff mystery. Zing makes hers with the added decadence of  bacon. And my sister checks in with some family secrets. Iris and Mary James think 5 eggs is too many and I agree, so I tried them agin, using a recipe from Alain Ducasse. Perfection! Here is the photo, cookies no longer:

Favorite READS: If you want to lift yourself out of lockdown for a moment, our loyal reader Natalia has a book for you: Paris in Bloom by Georgianna Lane. "Complete eye candy!!" she says, and she's right! And for anyone who is contemplating air travel, especially to Europe (as we are), you will want to read Karen McCann's hilarious account of her trip from Spain to the states in the middle of the pandemic.

And for another pleasant and beautiful distraction, please check out the work of some of our readers who are fabulous artists. Three new ones to try:

Mary Salas

Gail Wendorf

and my dear friend, 免费外网加速器软伀

French gougères which I did not make (photo, Brown Eyed Baker)

I did not learn to cook from my mother.

My mother, Mickey, was proudly from the ""I Hate to Cook" school. She mostly stuck to a rigid program, the simple, boring, 7-day menu. 

But at some memorable point in my childhood, someone in her bridge club improbably taught her to make homemade chocolate eclairs, pastry and all, and she got on an eclair kick for a while. In other words, though she didn’t know it, she was actually making a French pâte à choux (of course she filled them with instant pudding and topped them with canned chocolate frosting, but hey). Pâte à choux is also the base for those iconic Burgundy apero nibbles, 免费vpm全球网络加速器, little gruyère cheese puffs that you can find in any Burgundian boulangerie.

She never taught me to make the puffs, but the point of this story is: if Mickey did it, WE CAN DO THIS. Imagine impressing your guests with homemade French gougères,  or make them without the cheese for that blissful French dessert, chocolate profiteroles. Or even eclairs.

I decided to try making gougères after watching a demo last summer at one of those wonderfully campy  French village fêtes. Monsieur le chef, wearing a ridiculous looking hat which he claimed was essential to the process, taught us to make g网络加速器下载at a table in the town square. He beat the dough with a flourish, but forgot to add the eggs and instead put the cheese in first, so the dough was absurdly sticky. A half hour later he was still struggling to get the dough from spoon to baking sheet, and grumbling something about refusing to do it next year unless they got him a new oven. I think we can easily improve on his technique.

So I turned to the American-in-Paris French cooking wiz, Dorie Greenspan, for a recipe.

Things were going well until I finished the "dough", which was in fact, a liquid. Hmm. I re-checked my recipe: I had put only half the flour they called for. Which of course was the first ingredient to be added.  So right at the end, I dumped in the rest of the flour, and a little more for good measure since my dough was still pretty thin. I guess I can't say another word about Monsieur le chef.

Ron likes to say, "If you can read, you can cook". Maybe it's the reading that's my problem?

But I soldiered on, and predictably my wayward gougères did not rise an inch. So we renamed them gougère cookies. They were actually very tasty, and we polished them all off. I'm sure when I make them again, they will be perfectly plump. Or perhaps I'm doomed to follow in my mom's footsteps?

So give this recipe a try, but beware: read carefully!

RECIPE: French Gougères

My gougère cookies. I do not recommend them.

Dear readers, I don't know how these will turn out if you actually follow the recipe, but I hope you will let me know.

• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup water
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
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• 1 1/2 cups coarsely grated cheese, such as Gruyère or cheddar (about 6 ounces; see above)
• Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.
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• Turn the dough into the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or into a bowl that you can use for mixing with a hand mixer or a wooden spoon and elbow grease. Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one and beat, beat, beat until the dough is thick and shiny. Make sure that each egg is completely incorporated before you add the next, and don't be concerned if the dough separates—by the time the last egg goes in, the dough will come together again. Beat in the grated cheese. Once the dough is made, it should be spooned out immediately.
• Using about 1 tablespoon of dough for each gougère , drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Using about 1 tablespoon of dough for each gougère, drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the gougères are golden, firm, and, yes, puffed, another 12 to 15 minutes or so. Serve warm, or transfer the pans to racks to cool. 
   
  Serving: Gougères are good straight from the oven and at room temperature. I like them both ways, but I think you can appreciate them best when they're still warm. Serve with kir, white wine, or Champagne.
  Storing: The best way to store gougères is to shape the dough, freeze the mounds on a baking sheet, and then, when they're solid, lift them off the sheet and pack them airtight in plastic bags. Bake them straight from the freezer—no need to defrost—just give them a minute or two more in the oven. Leftover puffs can be kept at room temperature over night and reheated in a 350-degree-F oven, or they can be frozen and reheated before serving.

In the COMMENTS: Our readers have tons of ideas for what the French call "le confinement". Mariella has a great film club idea for movie buffs, and I especially love the “3 things” challenge. Mary finds peace in her woodland garden, and I imagine is busy painting too—see her beautiful landscapes and fanciful dancers here. Natalia is reading to her pups—I wonder what Vino the Bambino would make of that? Have to try it. Frank, I’m sorry you missed your trip (as we probably will) but your story of shy onions and 100 gladiolas tickled me. Debby, like us, is into chatting, with wine. Heather may have the most brilliant idea: go wild with ice cream! Anne’s taking out her frustration on her weeds, Connie’s making sourdough. Vicky, your squirrel relocation project certainly gets the unique award! Tom in France has an international dinner party going, plus French lessons—can we get in on those please?  Rachel is also learning a new language: birdsong! Kathy has rediscovered her neighborhood.

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Readers, we've got to talk (too bad we are too many to zoom!). Now that we have a new world order thrust upon us, and the fortunate ones have the luxury of a lot of  time on our hands, it's time to make a Plan. 

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Here, then, is a list of things which have helped us, or which others have suggested.  They include ways to help yourself, your family, and to help those less fortunate. Now, please share YOUR best ideas for keeping your sanity intact, in the Comments, section.

1. Our new favorite thing: Facetime Happy Hour. Just the two of us and a couple of friends.  We made a long list of friends and we do one session every day, with the ones we normally see, the friends far away, friends we've lost touch with. Tip: to make it more of an "event", we schedule a day ahead with them, then at 5:30 we get our wine glasses we sit down for a nice, long "face to face" chat. 

art by Tom Vieth

2. Drive to a pretty place--a waterfront, a forest, a park, a wilderness trail, or a quiet neighborhood you don't know well, and take a long walk.

3. Make a list of nice things you can do for your neighbors. One of our neighbors knocked on doors with a big basket of cupcakes. I took some spring tulips around. And so on.

4. Feeling out of control? Organize! Tackle your closet, your pantry, your drawers.

5. Be kind to your devices, they've taken on a new importance. Set up that new playlist, or house-clean your apps, clear off unwanted photos, pick a new screen saver.

6. Cook something new, if you like to cook. Cook something new, if you don't.

7. Brush up on your French! Or learn any new language, or skill.

8. You've got lots of career and life experiences. Teach a facetime class to some kids in your life. Their home school teacher will thank you. 

9. Plant a garden. Get some chickens. 

10.  网络加速器免费破解 People are still dumping pets at shelters, in greater numbers--yet donations are dropping. They need help, and YOU need a new companion to make you smile. Fostering a bunch of kittens or puppies is really fun. But beware of Foster Failures, like Vino the Bambino. 

Take us home, please

11. Volunteer. This is a tough one. I'm still looking for good solutions. Something one can do at home? Something local? I've discovered a small church charity that caters to  the poor in the immediate area, so I'm hoping they can help me find a needy family to feed for a while. Here are lots of  ways you can help or donate.

12. Audit a 蜂鸟ⅤPN软伀. There are tons of possibilities out there, for on-line learning. Here are some free courses from Harvard, for example.

13. Stream a broadway play, or a symphony. We've been watching Broadway plays on PBS Passport, and the weekly free 网络加速器下载 musicals.

14. Could there be a better time to brush up on your skills for fighting fair with your spouse or co-quarantiners? Learn to argue properly with  those irritating family members. Find help here, or here.

15. Fluff up your decor. Yes you can! I've furnished a bedroom in the last month, just with on-line or curb-side pickup resources.  Lonny (an on-line magazine) has some tips on how to refresh your space. 

16. Make some masks. My clever sister has already made 120, which she donated. Complete with pocket for a filter.

17. Eat lunch or dinner in a 蜂鸟ⅤPN软伀, something I learned from my neighbor Marion in France, who is famous for holding dinner parties in every room in or around her house, including her guest room and the stair landing (read A pop-up Café in our Village).We are in a small house here in Charleston (but with lots of rooms), so we alternate between the dining room, breakfast room, terrace, and living room. I guess the office is next. And don't forget the candles, flowers, and a rotating playlist.

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For southerners only, and for game lovers: I just bought a trivia game based on southern culture, called Bless Your Heart, to play with our kids on facetime. And if you're not a southerner, well...bless your heart. You can check out these other alternatives.

19. When you're really bored, do as Ron does: 网络加速器免费版 get a glass of wine, and chat with everybody who walks by.

20. Start a blog!

21...OK, your turn! What are you doing for fun/to be helpful/to stay sane?

Photo: The Mystery of the Missing Chickens (This chick seems to be in lockdown, or maybe she's looking IN at us!)

I hope you are all coping well, and isolating yourself for the cause. My heart goes out to all those affected by this awful disease, financially or health-wise. Especially to those who have lost jobs and were already living from paycheck to paycheck. What will they do? And the frustrating thing is, we can’t leave our homes to help them.

This crisis is what the ever-resilient Charlestonians, veterans of many a war, plague, and natural disaster,  would call “the Latest Unpleasantness”. 

Let’s take a look at how the French are coping, as reported by our friends in Beaune.

First up are the grocery store shortages. Are the French obsessed with toilet paper as we are? Pas de tout. Maybe because lots of French houses have bidets, and with a bidet you hardly need toilet paper at all (so will bidets finally become a ‘thing’ here?).  

The grocery stores  this week are well stocked with food and toilet paper, folks are not hoarding as they are in the US. Except for one surprising item: chicken! None to be found in any store.

Now why could that be? Julie, a friend in France, says, "it’s French comfort food!" Mais oui. Everyone is home making coq au vin! No peanut butter, beans, or tuna fish for this crowd, they’re going down in style.

And of course it freezes well. I usually use Julia Child’s recipe, though I simplify a bit, and add more veggies. You’ve got time on your hands, so why not make it?

The French are also limiting the number of people who can go into a 免费vpm全球网络加速器at any one time to only 3 or so, instead of the usual crowd inside, who are impatient for their morning baguette. There is nothing that can make the French give up their daily 网络加速器免费破解 visit.

In France, where the virus is ahead of us, you must have a document to leave your house, and only for certain essential things, and only for an hour a day, and you can't go far. They have issued many thousands of fines for those who don’t comply. We may see the same thing in the States, especially since so many young people appear not to have gotten the message.

So, we’re all looking for comfort food this week. Here’s a recipe by Ali Slagle that I found (and made a few changes to) which was both easy, quick and nourishing. By the time the oven heated up, it was ready to cook. It worked for my meat-loving husband, and I ate the tasty veggies. So whip this up for dinner, then get back to all those projects you’ve been meaning to do around the house. And I have all of you in my thoughts, wishing you good health.

RECIPE: Sheet Pan Sausage with Veggies and Honey Mustard

This sauce is so good I will use it when I just make roasted potatoes, too.

• hot Italian sausges, 1 per person
• one of, or some combo of: trimmed, halved brussel sprouts; chunks of sweet peppers; carrot sticks or small carrots; chunks of yellow squash or zucchini; broccoli florets
• 1/2 to 1lb small potatoes, halved or quartered, maybe throw in some sweet potatos
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
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• a heaping tablespoon of honey
• 1 tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
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• ¼ cup almonds or walnuts, chopped
• Heat oven to 450 degrees, and place a sheet pan in the oven. Score the sausages in a few places on both sides.
• Transfer to a large bowl with the veggies, potatoes and 2 tablespoons olive oil, and stir until coated. (If the mixture seems dry, add a little more oil.) Season with salt and pepper.
• Spread the mixture in an even layer on the heated baking sheet. Roast 15 minutes.
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• Drizzle the honey mustard over the sausages and vegetables, and toss with a spatula to coat.  Sprinkle with nuts. Roast until the sausages are cooked through and the vegetables are golden and tender, another 10 minutes or so. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
• Serve with plenty of wine, you are going to need it.

In the COMMENTS: I was completely overwhelmed with all the warm, lovely comments I received, and I can’t thank y’all enough. You might want to check them out—there are  some harrowing stories of those affected, and tales of getting stranded, and reports from different countries on how they are handling it.

I'm fine now and it turned out I’m one of the lucky ones. I continued to isolate in my bedroom for an additional 11 days after the 14, to be safe. Now I’m happily out of jail, Ron is still fine, and we are hoping to get serology tests one day. Immunity seems increasingly to be a illusive concept, so I’m being careful, distancing and masking up like everyone else.  

Our reader Anne made the sconces we blogged about recently, but with chocolate chips! Here is her photo. Pretty yummy looking.

免费vpm全球网络加速器 We all really need good books right now. I've been reading Love in a Cold Climate by Nancy Mitford, very droll and oh so British (and now a Netflix series, which I didn't love). After wallowing in  the bad news that's in the daily paper, Ron has recently forbidden me from reading anything but Dave Barry. Try Dave Barry Turns 50 if you are of a certain age, or Dave Barry's Greatest Hits. A laugh is good for the soul! Our voracious reader Natalia recommends Prairie Fires:The American Dreams of Laura Ingalls Wilder,"by Caroline Fraser.

Photo: mosaic from a wall at the port in Menton, France

 

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As of this past Monday, I’m a COVID19 survivor. 

We need to take this nasty business seriously, and to do that we each have to understand this deeply: it could, and almost certainly will, happen to you or someone you love. I want to tell you my story, with the hope that it will make you even more cautious. And I hope none of you get this terrible virus.

Let me put it to you straight: If you really knew how bad this disease could be, you wouldn’t just be isolating, you’d be cowering under your bed.

HOW I GOT IT: 3 weeks ago, a lifetime ago when the world was just starting to do elbow bumps, I flew to Washington DC for a quick 3-day reunion with 3 college friends. Airports were normal, no masks or gloves, though we were religiously using our hand sanitizer; coronavirus was a distant threat. In DC it was business as usual at museums and restaurants, there had been maybe 1 case there. Planes were crowded and some people were coughing. Five days after I got off the plane, I got the first symptoms.

A Note: We have been in Charleston for a bit, so we are here until France opens its borders again. (How I wish we were in France! Here the response has been disorganized and political, full of misinformation. There, they have TWICE as many hospital beds, more doctors, a social safety net, universal health care, they are paying businesses to hold on to their workers instead of putting people on unemployment, and they have a functional government that cares about its people. But, here we are.)

So, let’s get started on what my two weeks were like, probably in more detail than is needed, but which I hope will inspire everyone to be even more cautious. But if ignorance is bliss for you, skip the hard part but do go to the bottom of this post and consider my recommendations for what you should have on hand in case your family is struck.

A Coronavirus Journal

DAYS 1 through 6

 I have a scratchy throat, but I am trying to ignore it. But then I wake up in the middle of the night with a sudden serious  dry cough.I have never in my life had a cough which wasn’t preceded by a head cold, nor a dry cough. So this is not normal. 

I now have the classic symptoms: dry cough, check. Tightness in the chest and shallow breathing, check.  A little fatigue, check. A scratchy throat, check. Poor appetite, check. A low grade fever, intermittently. But all very mild. I don’t really feel bad.

So we set up a quarantine room. I stay in our bedroom, since it's already well contaminated, and my husband takes the guest room and the rest of the house. He will cook, clean, deliver meals to me. Vino the Bambino is my companion. 

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I try, with no luck to get tested. The hospital says, “we basically have no tests. You have to be in the hospital and critical for that.” What a great country!

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Here’s a bright side: I’m reminded I have great friends. I’m spending most of the day on the phone and emailing. My friends have kept me sane. Mille mercis, mes amis!!

网络加速器免费版: over the moon at first, then, “Yea, I’ve got a mild case! Then  it goes up again as I read that  often the second week, the virus can go south.

DAY  7

Mild symptoms holding, but this is the start of the week you can go downhill. I’m happy to make it to bedtime intact. But suddenly, just before bed, things are not right. In a flash I feel nauseous, fatigued, terrible. My breathing goes shallow, I develop a sudden case of diarrhea.

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The night is endless. I never sleep. By 6 am, my breathing is labored enough that I’ve decided it’s time to go to the hospital. I drag myself up, get dressed and pack a bag. 

Anxiety Level: off the charts

 DAY 8

Ron wakes up, we talk, and he is calm. Let’s think about this, he says. We decide we urgently need an oximeter, to measure the oxygen level in my blood, and he goes off to the drugstore to get one. My level is not in the danger zone for now, so we decide to stay put. I write emails to my sister—will she come get my cat if need be? And to our youngest daughter, to warn her to start planning about what will happen if I’m in the hospital, and Ron gets sick, here alone.

The day drags by in total misery and I’m counting the minutes as they go by. I force down a bit of chicken stock. I am so ill that I  keep thinking, if this goes on for days, I will not be able to bear it. I have a virtual appointment with my doctor (who is himself under isolation in his bedroom, after being exposed), who gives me something mild for sleep that won’t suppress my breathing.

Being ill and having no one to hold your hand, and your husband banished from your side, seems the cruelest trick of all.

After an eternity, nighttime arrives. Nights are the scariest time. But tonight I sleep a bit.

Anxiety Level: too high to count.

DAY 9

After sleep and a shower, I feel almost human again. I sit up in my chair and read. Then The Misery comes back suddenly, and for an hour I am very ill. Then I rally. This goes on all day, back and forth, but there are more good times than bad.

I can see the intracoastal waterway from my bedroom, and all day, in the fine weather, motorboats are passing by, stuffed to the brim with large families or with groups of scantily clad 20-somethings, looking like they have no care in the world. Their loud rap music mixes with the sounds of sirens racing over the bridge. (They won't figure out for another week that they should close the waterways).

DAYS 10-11

I sleep late and a shower revives me, and I feel pretty good all day. My appetite is coming back slowly. I’m  having lengthy coughing fits (still a dry cough) so sleeping is tough. The good news continues for 3 good days, and I am eating normal meals, if light, and I feel good. Could I have turned the corner? I don’t trust this monster, but I can’t help but be optimistic. Amazingly, Ron is still fine.

DAYS 12 & 13

I go to sleep feeling OK. And wake up an hour later feeling, quite literally, that I am going to die.

I have chills, I’m highly agitated, and I feel like I could jump out of my skin. My oxygen levels take a dive and I’m within one point of the ER danger zone. I have a fever.

The intensity passes in a while, but now I have The Misery again, and a fatigue so great I can hardly move. It’s unrelenting. I lie there, staring at the ceiling, listening to “bedtime piano music” on youtube. I can’t eat or sleep. I’m having talks with Ron on what to do in case of my demise.

Anxiety level: Terminal?

DAY 13

After two long days of The Misery, suddenly I’m feeling pretty good. It’s like that, this beast; one minute you’re in hell, then you pop back up.

DAYS 14-17

I’m feeling good. I feel like I’m in safe territory now. Ron is still fine! Then I read the new news that says you can be contagious long after symptoms are gone, so in fact you need to isolate for a total of a MONTH. So I’ll be in my prison for a while, but that’s a minor problem at this point.

We seem to be two of the lucky ones, despite my journey into the depths.

Happiness reins in our household, until we’re reminded that the world outside our window is a terrifying place. Our prayers go out to all you suffer in this time of madness and uncertainty, and we wish you and yours good health, a calm mind, and a hopeful future.

HERE ARE THE THINGS TO NEED TO HAVE ON HAND in case someone in you family gets sick, per my own experience. This thing can come on so fast, you don’t want to be making last minute runs to the drug store.

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—An oximeter ($35 to $60) is essential. According to all the docs I’ve spoken to, including two dear friends who are ER docs and have kindly pulled me through this, it’s crucial to have one. If your reading drops too low, it’s time to be off to the hospital. NOTE: I’ve been advised that it can take some time to register a drop; so let your breathing be a guide too. If you are seriously short of breath, value that info over the reading.

—Some Tylenol, the ONLY medication approved for fever for this disease. Ibuprofen and aspirin apparently aggravate it, and check any cold medicines you have on hand for those ingredients, too. 

—Some cough drops, to soothe a dry throat.

—Something mild to help you sleep and that doesn’t suppress breathing would be nice to have on hand, used  only with a doctor’s guidance. Unless you're a rock, you are going to have high anxiety, and nights are the worst.

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—You’ll need gatorade to keep your electrolytes balanced if you’re not eating well, and I was drinking Ensure for a few days as well. We found these items, fully stocked, in our grocery store, so no need to hoard. In place of Gatorade, a friend recommends something from the drug store called IV in a bottle, which requires much less volume than Gatroade, but I haven’t used it.

—For calming anxiety and helping with sleep, I recommend going to a site called CALM. They have all sorts of aids and one is bound to suit you. There are relaxation exercises, music to sleep by, white noise choices, meditation models, bedtime stories read by famous actors, and more. Youtube also has peaceful bedtime music which plays for 10 hours and can give you a little something to focus on when you can’t do anything else.

Bon courage, toute le monde. Stay well and stay home. I am praying for every one of you.

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Lynn

When we first moved to the château, there was a small, dreary bakery just up the road. Madame with the bleached-out hair always sat just inside the door, on a stool, smoking a cigarette. There was only one bread on offer: a baguette. We like them, but we avoid white flour for our daily bread, so one day I asked her if she might think of  carrying a pain aux céréales (whole grain bread). She looked at me with disdain. “No one in the countryside would buy them”, she said.

A baguette and a copy of LeMonde: a French breakfast tradition.

A couple of years later a young French baker and his wife bought the bakery. The change was astonishing. Pain aux Céréales! Pain aux noix! Croissants and brioches! We were in heaven. And there was almost always a line out the door. Take that, Madame!

These days some French boulangeries are even daring to get a tiny bit international. They carry all the French breads and desserts, and certainly they feature regional delights, But now you sometimes see scones, brownies, or even doughnuts; muffins are particularly popular. We want them to retain their wonderful Frenchness, but it’s fun to see them branch out a bit. Now if they would only discover southern biscuits…

Happily French bakeries always carry regional specialties, like these Kugelhopfs in Alsace.

And speaking of biscuits,  let’s go full English this week, and make some scones (these are actually more biscuit-like than their denser and drier cousin, the scone, but we shall call them scones anyway).  My absolute favorite scone: cinnamon. These I’ve womped up with a maple glaze and some chopped pecans. On a cold February day, these will warm your cockles. They are not much more trouble than whipping up a batch of biscuits. 

RECIPE: Cinnamon Scones with Maple Glaze

Adapted from Deliciously Yum.  

Cinnamon chips are often hard to find in the grocery store, but you can order them on -line. One bag makes two nice-sized batches.

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• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 3/4 cup milk or half and half
• 1 large egg
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• 1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
•  half a package (5 oz) of cinnamon chips

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• 1 cups confectioners' sugar
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
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  • 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or use a Silpat.
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  • 3. In another bowl,  whisk together cream, egg, and vanilla .
  • 4. Add butter to food processor, and give it 10 or 12 1-second pulses. It should not be completely smooth; you should be able to feel tiny lumps of butter, sort of a coarse meal. Pour mixture into a large bowl. Add wet ingredients and, using a fork, combine until not quite fully incorporated and dough comes together. Add chips and stir just until they are incorporated. Be careful not to over mix; batter will not be smooth. Turn dough out onto your work surface** fold over a couple of times to lightly knead, and press and pat into a 7-inch circle. You can cut them in triangles but I used a large round cutter. Put them close together on the sheet pan, almost touching.  Place in the oven and bake for 15-18 minutes or until edges are slightly brown. Remove from the oven and transfer scones to wire racks to cool.
  • 5. Once scones have mostly cooled, combine confectioners' sugar, cream or milk, maple syrup and vanilla in a medium bowl. Mix it into sugar gradually, adding more or less to be sure consistency is right. Whisk until smooth, adjusting to a glaze consistency with more cream if needed. Spoon over the scones. Sprinkle with chopped pecans. Store up to 3 days in a closed container.

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  **To roll them out, I throw a few drops of water on the counter, then put down a piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Flour it, and when you’re done cutting them out, just roll it up and pitch it. Presto, clean counter!

In the COMMENTS: Colleen, we're salivating over those cream puffs. Suzanne, lemon curd is a brilliant idea, for a sweet puff. Amy, THANK YOU for sharing your secret for keeping gougeres puffy, I can't wait to try it. Jane, I have never heard of a Stirabout, what a great name!

Favorite READS and FILMS:  Readers often ask me about health care and insurance in France, if they're thinking of staying for an extended period of time. Karen McCann, who lives in Spain, has lots of info about health care abroad in this blog post. Vicky says The Extraordinary Life of Sam Hell, a novel, is a real page-turner. In the film department, our reader Meredith  says, "I noticed you recommended some french films and thought I would mention a charming one called "Two is a Family" or “Demain Tout Commence”.  It stars Omar Sy who did a wonderful job in the film “The Intouchables”, another charming film." ("Two is a Family" may be hard to find in the states). 免费外网加速器软伀, Meredith. And if you have not seen "The Intouchables", please do, it's great! I liked it better than the American version, which is called "The Upside".

Meredith also sent a picture of the Puff she made. It's a beauty!

I must have been in my twenties when I clipped  a recipe out of magazine for an “oven pancake puff”.  I’ve been making it ever since, for breakfast or brunch. It’s a giant popover, basically, which you whip up in about 5 minutes, pour into a cast  iron skillet, bake and serve to ooh’s and aah’s.  It billows up then slowly collapses, a glorious presentation that makes it look like you’ve spent hours in the kitchen. I top it with a squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkling of sugar, and it really dazzles with some sliced strawberries on top.

Since then I’ve heard it called a Dutch Baby, although it’s said to have been invented in the States by a German cook. It’s also called a Bismark, a Finnish pancake, a German pancake, and a Swedish puff. It resembles an English Yorkshire pudding. This pancake gets around!

And now, it has earned a French connection. The pancake bears some similarity to gougères, those wonderful puffed concoctions, rich with gruyere cheese, which the French serve with aperos. You will find in any good French boulangerie. I never pass them up when I see them.

Above,  gougères. from a French boulangerie. (How did they get these to stay puffed? That's an experiment for another day).

I recently came across Melissa Clark’s recipe for a Gruyère Puff, which is essentially my trusty Oven Pancake Puff, made savory with some sea salt, pepper, and grated gruyere. How inspired! I served it for dinner the other night, with a salad of kale, orange sections, marcona almonds and walnut oil, and it was sensational.

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The recipes, one sweet and  one savory, are below.

RECIPE: Oven Pancake Puff with Berries

Photo from King Arthur Flour

• 3 large eggs
• ½ cup whole milk
• ½ cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 蜂鸟ⅤPN软伀
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter for batter, plus 1 for the pan
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• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 cup or more of berries

Heat oven to 400 degrees (200C). Melt the butter in a 9" cast iron pan or oven proof skillet in the oven. When it's melted, whisk together flour, eggs, milk, melted butter, salt, and pepper in a bowl until smooth. 

Put the skillet back in oven with 1 tablespoon of butter. Remove from oven when it's melted and hot; swirl to coat. Pour batter into hot pan and bake until puffed and dark gold in color, 30 minutes.

Sprinkle with lemon juice, then with sugar, top with berries, and serve immediately.

RECIPE:  Gruyère Puff

From Melissa Clark, with small changes.

(Photo of my puff, at top of post)

• 3 large eggs
• ½ cup whole milk
• ½ cup all-purpose flour
• ½ 蜂鸟ⅤPN软伀
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, plus 1 for pan
• ¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 3 ounces)
• Coarse sea salt, for sprinkling

Heat oven to 400 degrees (200C). Melt the butter in a 9" cast iron pan or oven proof skillet in the oven. When it's melted, whisk together flour, eggs, milk, melted butter, salt, and pepper in a bowl until smooth. Stir in the cheese.

Put the skillet back in oven with 1 tablespoon of butter. Remove from oven when it's melted and hot; swirl to coat. Pour batter into hot pan and bake until puffed and dark gold in color, 30 minutes.

Sprinkle with sea salt if desired and serve immediately.

In the COMMENTS: Well lots of folks had interesting opinions about round-abouts, especially in the US! I did not know that New England has lots, and now Austin. I agree that Americans sometimes don't quite get them. When they added the first one in Charleston, everyone was up in arms--but now every neighborhood wants them. Frank, you made me laugh, I've done the same thing trying to photograph them!

A slightly belated felicitions to loyal reader Herm and his wife Sharron, who celebrated 57 years of marriage last month.

Favorite READS: Please take a moment today to cruise over to the blog A Small Village in France, and read a lovely post which is a great reminder to live every day, when possible, in a beautiful and kind way.  Also our resident Champion Reader has a new book for us, a "page-turner": The Starless Sea by Erin Morgenstern. Rebecca has some movie recommendations, and she likes Ann Patchett's new book, The Dutch House.